Thanks for your generosity with your maps and research and those 750's were a lot of fun back in the day. Still wish I had my CBX1000 to ride trying to talk my cousin out of it but he won't budge.

 

Thanks for your generosity with your maps and research and those 750's were a lot of fun back in the day. Still wish I had my CBX1000 to ride trying to talk my cousin out of it but he won't budge.

No problem at all. Yeah I really like the CBX and have been looking around for one during the past year. Couple of good opportunities, but my gut told me it was probably a bit over my head dealing with 6 carbs, power, weight, etc. This CB750F1 was a great compromise. Runs great, lightweight, easy to work on. Plus if it gets out of hand, I can easily find a few local shops to straighten her out.

 

Damn, that thing not only looks great but it frickin runs! Congrats on that find!

Fun times

 

Was just looking at the power commander website. They have several interesting accessories for the PCV such as an Auto tuner module, map switch and Pod Display module. Also two new versions of the PCV

 

Was just looking at the power commander website. They have several interesting accessories for the PCV such as an Auto tuner module, map switch and Pod Display module. Also two new versions of the PCV

Not sure what page your seeing, but the only thing you need is:

Powercommander V (Fuel and Ignition)Part Number: 16-025 Looks like the others are fuel control only. On my bike I have: PCV 16-025, AT-200 (only 1 installed on my front pipe), and LCD-200 (color monitor, data logger). I saw the POD-300, but I didn't want that. It is better waterproofed, more functions (I think) but I like the old color touch screen. BUT now that I have it close to her tuned perfect, I'll probably be selling my LCD-200 on eBay soon. I do recommend the AT-200, it always keeps your bike running in peak condition not matter, product changes, poor fuel, altitude, rain or temperature changes.

As I mentioned before. If you guys do not want to go through the effort or expense of installing the PCV and/or Autotune. It is cheaper to get your ECU re-programmed with near results, but with options like lowering your idle, lowering your fan turn on. Credit to Kbusskill on the FuryFuroms. It's done my GHUL Motorsports in PA for $375. Free ECU changes for life. You pay shipping.

I like to tinker with my bike so I'm happy with what I have. If you already have a PCV, try my program. If you haven't decided. Please visit FuryForums and read other peoples comments and make a decision on whats best for you. AJ

 

Not sure what page your seeing, but the only thing you need is:

Powercommander V (Fuel and Ignition)Part Number: 16-025 Looks like the others are fuel control only. On my bike I have: PCV 16-025, AT-200 (only 1 installed on my front pipe), and LCD-200 (color monitor, data logger). I saw the POD-300, but I didn't want that. It is better waterproofed, more functions (I think) but I like the old color touch screen. BUT now that I have it close to her tuned perfect, I'll probably be selling my LCD-200 on eBay soon.

Did you ever put your LCD200 on Ebay? If not do you still want to sell?

 

That's a good looking SOHC! I have a DOHC 750F and love it

 

Bacon, I have to admit that's one amazing bike. Fast as hell, I think quick as or quicker than the 1300. Does 90+ with easy, sounds amazing, I just can't get over the fact that she's 40 years old. Looking forward to many great miles ahead.

 

CB750F Running awesomely now

 

Here is the Version 2 of my MAP. I did bring down the timing 1 degree in the upper rpms. You are hardly ever there for more then half a sec at a time, so your not going to lose peak hp or torque. This was confirmed by reviewing my ECU recorder. Fuel is adjusted in the mid area to help improve drivability. Previous I had it a little too lean in the cruise area (to try to save gas). Well it didn't save any gas and the old map would cause a little vibration if you were accelerating in 5th gear through the 55-65 mph range. Now everything should be very smooth and fine to use MID-GRADE fuel. In case the question pops up. I get 46 mpg average driving like an idiot, and about 50 something if I drive smoothly, and stay under 65 mph. *** I left both versions in case one likes the older one better *** Enjoy. https://app.box.com/s/7k191d5lym3i8dr0hok1838omm9etzxg

 

 

Those sohc 750's are great bikes, been looking for a reasonably priced one but no luck yet...

 

I test rode a black 79 CB750 F back in the day, I remember being quite impressed with both the power and how civilized it was!

 

Yeah my '76 super sport pushes 70+hp and weighs about 500 lbs. has shorter 4th & 5th gears. (Also jetted & aftermarket pipes)
Equals? 12 second quarter mile on a 40 year old bike.
I picked it up off eBay for $1700 with only 12,000 miles. Spend about $250 fr the re-fresh.

 

I have a 836cc kit with cam, heavy duty valve springs and shot peened rods that I had purchased some 30 years ago and then ended up selling the bike. so I've been looking for another K model do you use all this stuff on. I have a SOHC engine and a softail frame but I didn't really want to make a chopper. the search continues...

I put a set of hot coils on the 750 I had back in the day and that made quite a bit of difference, the stock coils come up a little short on the early year models..

 

I have a 836cc kit with cam, heavy duty valve springs and shot peened rods that I had purchased some 30 years ago and then ended up selling the bike. so I've been looking for another K model do you use all this stuff on. I have a SOHC engine and a softail frame but I didn't really want to make a chopper. the search continues...

I put a set of hot coils on the 750 I had back in the day and that made quite a bit of difference, the stock coils come up a little short on the early year models..

Actually I left the internals alone. The bike is fast & fun to ride. No point pouring money into her. It'll ride her fast & hard until she blows up. But I don't think that's gonna happen anytime soon. Love the SOHC F-series.

 

those old Hondas are bulletproof, you'll be enjoying that bike for a long time. all I did to the one I owned was put a header on it, jetted the carbs and the hot coils and it ran great...

 

I love the old Honda's. I wish I could own a CB750 or CB1100. I have little room now in the shop and still have plenty to do to my own bike but one day I will have one to make my own. Also, 2dirty, that v2 map is rocking. It is a whole new bike. Way more MPH per RPM with my bike.

 

4F, did you fill out the on-line form from Dyno jet to increase you max rpm to +500 (6400 or something like that) if not. Do it right away, the tune tables is already set for it.

 

No I haven't. I will do right now. It was TheUSD before mine so maybe she already did it? What is the link to this form, I cannot find it anywhere on their site. Its a hidden gem, I have done it before but cannot find it now.

 

http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/GeneralDocuments/FormWaivers/RevXtendReqForm-1.pdf

 

I picked up a PCV and installed it last weekend. I downloaded the map that Power Commander recommends for Cobra Swept and Spike intake (closest to what I have). I was not overly impressed. I downloaded the one you shared here and got noticeable improvements. I wanted to say thanks for sharing them. I tried searching the forums for any new Maps you might have made but didn't find anything. If you have done any tinkering since this map I would be more than happy to check it out if you're willing to share. Thanks again!

 

The V.2 has been the last and final iteration I have and I still use it to this day. Enjoy!

 

I installed my PCV awhile back and have an early report here to give.

It seems quite different than the Fi2000R which I was running, the bike now seems quieter while I "Putt" around the city streets, the Fi2000R seemed to have more of a booming sound all of the time.

The low speed throttle handling is different, and the shift points are now in different places, which isn't too big a deal, it's more noticeable when carrying a passenger and cruising through the hilly back-roads.

On starting the bike up during some local errands, the bike coughed and died just after an easy exit from a parking space, it almost went down, right there in front of some pedestrians.

It obviously has a different way to meter the fuel on take off.

But out on the highway I was rolling along at about 55 - 60 and some dork was in a hurry and pulled out in front of me, then drove 45-50, I couldn't pass for about a mile but when I could I dropped it down into 3rd and the bike lunged forward like some double pumper four barrels kicked in, and did it speak, it never had that tone as stock or with the Fi2000R.

The rest of the ride I was out raising hell, then that dad gum yellow fuel light came on way out in the middle of nowhere, closest gas was about five miles behind me, or eighteen ahead of me! About-face.

So the final test is going to be when I run alongside my friend's Tour Glide, and see how much faster I am now than I was before. It should be fun, I didn't tell him I put the PCV in

 

Have fun with that set up Bob your buddy will be surprised. They now make one of those with an auto tune and that should be pretty easy to get the right set up for your bike.

 

I've got a question and can't find any real answers searching the forums or just googling for that matter. I just got my PC V (no auto tune) on last week and just left a zero map in but removed the Rev and speed limiter. It felt more responsive on the top end. I will have my SLK's (Savages) in next week and I have the kury Velociraptor already on the bike. I would like to eventually load two maps, one for everyday good MPG and then one for "hot rod" in case the need every arises.

I'm techie so I look forward to experimenting but I want a "safe" map to start with and by using the switch for two maps I can play with one and if it isn't working or I really am off in my experiment, I can flip back and get back home to try another. I live on some back roads that have a lot of loose gravel on them so i have to go about 8 miles before I can hit good clean roads and highways to test my maps.

My question is, how much does the various options (e.g. exhaust and intakes combinations) make to the maps? I ask because of course the dynotech site has different maps for different combos. My thought pattern is, intake has a max CFM due to bore of the intake as long as air box can provide this (which all seem to do) then no change from intake. Now exhaust, a bit tricky because of the options but free flow of any type/design should be pretty close so then it just comes down to bike characteristics but are those so great as to effect motor performance or PERCEIVED motor performance .

thanks for the input/advice etc. This has been a great forum!