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WHYNOT
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Did your valves need adjusting? Was a lot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, every valve except for 1 needed adjustment.

Both exhaust valves were too tight. nothing bad, but left unchecked, these would lead to burnt valves over time. 1 intake valve was a little loose.

I definitely recommend getting the valves adjusted. If you don't have the extra $$, doing it yourself is very easy. :D
 

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WHYNOT
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Yeah, every valve except for 1 needed adjustment.

Both exhaust valves were too tight. nothing bad, but left unchecked, these would lead to burnt valves over time. 1 intake valve was a little loose.

I definitely recommend getting the valves adjusted. If you don't have the extra $$, doing it yourself is very easy. :D
I checked mine last week, manual says slight drag on feeler and that's what I had on all valves. Will check again in a couple thousand. I see you have twice the miles, have you adjusted them at all before now?
 

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jms412
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112 Posts
Hey Stateliner, I seem to have more valve noise than I did on my VTX. Stealer told me they were OK. Sounds good at idle but I can take off and when I get in second and above it seems to ping alot. I have noticed that as long as I keep the RPM's up it sounds ok but if I let it get below 2500 or 3000 (no tac)it pings. Should I get a second appendent? Any help would be great.
 

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WHYNOT
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745 Posts
Hey Stateliner, I seem to have more valve noise than I did on my VTX. Stealer told me they were OK. Sounds good at idle but I can take off and when I get in second and above it seems to ping alot. I have noticed that as long as I keep the RPM's up it sounds ok but if I let it get below 2500 or 3000 (no tac)it pings. Should I get a second appendent? Any help would be great.
My bike acts the same way and seems to be louder than my friends VTX. My valves were all right on the money. I think it's normal to hear the valves at lower RPM's, once you get the RPM's up, the valve train tightens up. No noise at low RPM's would lead me to think the valves are to tight.

This is all just my thought/opinion, I'm not a certified...anything:)
 

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jms412
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112 Posts
My bike acts the same way and seems to be louder than my friends VTX. My valves were all right on the money. I think it's normal to hear the valves at lower RPM's, once you get the RPM's up, the valve train tightens up. No noise at low RPM's would lead me to think the valves are to tight.

This is all just my thought/opinion, I'm not a certified...anything:)
Thanks whynot.
Hey Big X if you see this give me your thoughts.
 

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What affect have you seen on your gas mileage since you adjusted your valves? From what I've read so far, I suspect my valves may have been set too tight at assembly, since I'm hearing very little of the valve tick at idle that others are complaining of, and my gas mileage has been low, 39 mpg, since new. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What affect have you seen on your gas mileage since you adjusted your valves? From what I've read so far, I suspect my valves may have been set too tight at assembly, since I'm hearing very little of the valve tick at idle that others are complaining of, and my gas mileage has been low, 39 mpg, since new. :(
I have not checked the mileage yet. I need to go for a long trip to check that, I mostly run around town or back & forth from work. And yeah, you should hear at least some chatter when idling or in the lower rpm's. I would definitely check your valves. If you burn the valves, it will be expensive to fix $$$$$$

I would also recommend going to a full synthetic oil. I used Mobil1 Racing 4T Synthetic Motorcycle Oil from Advance Auto Parts. Loving it so far. It was a bit pricy. I think it was close to $10 a quart. I know others will argue about which oil to use, but after researching a while, a lot of people are very happy with Mobile 1.

As a side note, don't be stingy when draining your oil. remove both oil plugs when draining the oil. The front drain holds a few cups of oil, that the rear drain plug will not get to.

Bike shifts smoother, temperature runs a little cooler. And the motor is running quieter. It's supposed to improve the mileage some, but have not verified this.
 

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I just had my valves adjusted, and now I seem to hear a ticking noise at lower rpm that I did not hear before. From reading above this seems normal/ok ?????. I have every confidence in the mechanic who did the work, but it was a little disturbing to hear this for the first time after getting the valves adjusted. Mine were 2/1000 tight on the intake side and 1/1000 tight on the exhaust side.
 

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After adjusting mine they were a bit noisier but thats a good thing. When you don't hear them thats when they need to be checked. At least my new scoot does not need valves checked for a long time. Looks like a big job.
 

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After adjusting mine they were a bit noisier but thats a good thing. When you don't hear them thats when they need to be checked. At least my new scoot does not need valves checked for a long time. Looks like a big job.
I wonder what the labor charge is for setting the valves in you new bike there HB? :unsure:

But are those the rocker boxes on the side of the engine sticking out of the body work?

It might be fairly easy then ;)
The flat rate on the 32K mile service is 7.5 hrs, which includes 2.5 hrs to set the valves. Those are the valve covers on the sides, ( they are actually 2 pc, the lower covers the plugs, top the valve train) these engines use buckets, so if the valves need adjusting, you have to pull the cams and put in new buckets (shims) , then recheck . I have done 4 or 5 this year so far, think the F6 will be easier, because I don't expect the riders of these bikes to add so much crap to their bikes. (lights, etc to the front end), but I might be wrong.
 
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